L'eau-de-vie de Marc

L’eau-de-vie de Marc, un alcool parfois négligé… Vieille réserve Muscat

C’est la saison des vendanges, c’est bientôt la saison du marc à distiller…

L’eau-de-vie de Marc est l’une des quatres eaux-de-vie offertes par la vigne, les trois autres étant les eaux-de-vie de raisin, les eaux-de-vie de vin (fines, armagnac et cognac, fines blanches…), et les eaux-de-vie de lies qui sont, souvent à tort, rangées dans la catégorie précédente.

Comme l’eau-de-vie de vin, l’alcool de marc se décline en de nombreuses variantes que nous allons étudier maintenant.
Ainsi que c'est souvent le cas, ce sont les contraintes locales qui créent l’usage et la tradition, et par là les productions. Le marc est le résidus du pressage et il arrive à un moment de grande activité à la cave et ne peut pas souvent recevoir tout le soin qu’il devrait pour révéler ses trésors.  En revanche, ces contraintes vont permettre d’inventer d’autres usages, et donner naissances à des eaux-de-vie particulières, je pense au Marc de Bourgogne.

Tout d’abord, il y a deux sortes de marcs : les marcs de raisins rouges, qui sont pressés après la fermentation et qui peuvent donc être distillés immédiatement, ou pas. Et il y a les marcs de raisins blancs qui sont pressés avant la fermentation et qui devront être mis à fermenter comme les raisins ou les autres fruits.

Ensuite, il y a les eaux-de-vie blanches de marc et les eaux-de-vie ambrées (élevées en tonneaux comme le Cognac ou le Calva) de « vieux » marc.

Enfin, on peut encore distinguer deux tendances parmi ces eaux-de-vie : celles qui sont fruitées de celles qui sont corsées. Cette distinction concerne surtout les eaux-de-vie blanches, sans élevage en tonneau.

Marc adeb Comment fait-on ces eaux-de-vie ?

Plusieurs régions donnent le ton, voyons d’abord la région qui m’a beaucoup appris et qui est très réputé pour sa technique, sa tradition très vivante, et le soin apporté au travail : l’Alsace. Nous verrons ensuite la région où j’ai commencé la distillation : la Bourgogne. Ces deux régions représentent les deux pôles en matière d’eau-de-vie de Marc. Et puis nous finirons avec différentes techniques issues de ces traditions.

L’Alsace est connue pour ses eaux-de-vie blanches, très fruitées, et pour ses vins blancs. On y distille des marcs de raisins blancs aux arômes primaires (arômes fruités et fleuris, au contraire des arômes secondaires et tertiaires qui se développent pendant l’élevage) très puissants. Les raisins sont  pressés avant la fermentation comme il est l’usage pour les vins blancs et les marcs sont mis à fermentés dans des bidons comme les fruits (mirabelles, poires…). Ils sont distillés dès la fin de la fermentation. Ces eaux-de-vie sont très typées par le cépage - Gewurtzraminer et Muscat sont les plus connus. Ce sont des eaux-de-vie douces et fruitées, élevées dans des récipients en verre ou en inox et donc blanches.
En Alsace, on distille traditionnellement dans des alambics à repasse et à bain-Marie.

À l’inverse, nous avons les « Vieux Marcs de Bourgogne » qui sont préparés totalement différemment. En Bourgogne, on distille traditionnellement des marcs de rouge qui sont stockés dans des silos fermés par des bâches. Quelques mois plus tard, lorsque le travail de cave est plus calme, les marcs sont distillés dans des alambics à vapeur équipés de rectificateurs. Ces marcs ont en général fait la seconde fermentation, malo-lactique, ce qui transforme déjà les arômes primaires en arômes secondaires et les caractéristiques du cépage disparaissent en bonne partie.
Ces eaux-de-vie sont ensuite stockées dans des barriques de réforme qui ont servies pour l’élevage du vin blanc. Ce sont des eaux-de-vie ambrées qui auront souvent passé plusieurs années en tonneau. Elles sont plutôt fortes et corsées.

J’espère ne vexer personne, mais je pense que ce type d’eau-de-vie de Marc de Bourgogne n’est pas le genre de spiritueux en vogue actuellement. En revanche, il est possible de retirer des leçons de ces deux écoles et voyons maintenant d’autres possibilités pour nos « grappas ». Bidon de marc 1

On peut conclure que les eaux-de-vie fruitées sont préférées blanches, alors que celles qui ne le sont pas doivent compenser le manque aromatique par un élevage en barrique (même remarque pour les Armagnacs et Cognacs, les Whiskies &c…).
De même, on peut voir qu’une fermentation simple interrompue (par la distillation) avant la malo-lactique permet de conserver un maximum d’arômes.

Dans le Languedoc, j’ai distillé l’essentiel des cépages locaux. Certains étaient plus fruités que d’autres, d’autres étaient peu fruités mais très aromatiques. Ces Marcs ont donnés des eaux-de-vie blanches, fruitées comme en Alsace, ou corsées comme certaines Grappas (raisins rouges souvent). J’ai également distillé des eaux-de-vie de Marcs qui ont été élevées en barriques, des cépages rouges en général, souvent peu aromatiques.
J’ai l’habitude de distiller les marcs dès que la fermentation est terminée, ou dès la sortie du pressoir pour les rouges (d’ailleurs à l’heure où j’écris ces lignes, l’alambic distille un marc de pinot noir pressé aujourd’hui-même, voir photos à droite). l alambic et le marc

Les premiers marcs que j’ai distillés dans mon atelier de Montpeyroux (34) étaient des blancs. C'étaient un marc d’Ugniblanc égrappé et peu pressé, mis en fermentation dans 12 fûts de 180 litres, du domaine d’Aupilhac (Syvain Fadat), et un marc très pressé et non-égrappé de Chenin mis en fermentation dans une cuve en inox (3 tonnes) du Mas Jullien (Olivier Julien) …oui, j’ai eu de la chance de commencer avec de tels vignerons ! Le premier a donné une eau-de-vie étonnement fruitée (l’Ugniblanc, principal cépage du Cognac n’est pas très aromatique) avec un bon rendement alors que le second a donné une eau-de-vie extrêmement charpentée et corsée avec un rendement deux fois plus faible. Deux très belles eaux-de-vie qui doivent leur qualité au travail des vignerons. Distillations dans des alambics à feu-nu, à repasse, en cuivre, de 250 litres.
J’ai distillé des Grenaches et des Muscats noirs et blancs en vendanges tardives et séchés sur fils, non égrappés, qui ont donnés d’extraordinaires eaux-de-vie selon cette technique, puissants fruités, et corsés en même temps.
J’ai encore distillé des marcs de Grenache blanc qui ont donné une eau-de-vie corsé et puissante mais peu sucré. Un vrai régal… Ainsi que quelques bonbonnes de Terret qui ont très vite disparus chez les vignerons lors de joyeuses parties de cartes bien avant la première année de repos obligatoire à toute eau-de-vie blanche…
Ces eaux-de-vie ont été distillées avec une technique proche de ce que j’ai appris chez le très regretté Philippe Traber à Ribeauvillé (distillerie Metté à Ribeauvillé, Alsace). Toutes ont été réglées à 45°. Florence charge 1

Barrique
Avec la même technique, j’ai aussi mis des cœurs de chauffe de différents marcs très aromatiques dans une barrique, mais le résultat a mis très longtemps pour être convainquant : trop d’arômes pour trouver l’équilibre avec la barrique (fort degré en barrique, vidange de 50 %). Après 15 ans de fût, cette eau-de-vie est maintenant en bonbonnes, mais la puissance aromatique est telle que je la préfère en brut de fût à plus de 60° que réglé, ce qui fait que je ne sais pas comment la vendre et je crois qu’on va la boire nous-même…
Ma conclusion est qu’il faut privilégier soit l’aromatique du fruit, soit l’élevage, mais que les deux sont difficilement compatibles. Le vieillissement en fût est un art que j’ai développé dans d’autres articles, autrement dit, une eau-de-vie doit être distillée selon la destination qu’elle aura (blanche ou ambrée).

Pour faire une bonne eau-de-vie de marc, la principale recommandation que je peux faire est de conserver les marcs le moins longtemps possible et d'éviter absolument le contact avec l'air et les drosophyles qui vont immanquablement apparaitrent et altérer l'arôme, voire le piquer. Les bons marcs n'ont pas l'air plus que le temps d'être chargés pour la distillation.Florence charge 2

Le monde des eaux-de-vie de Marcs est plus vaste que beaucoup d’amateurs et de distillateurs le pensent ! Lorsque cette matière première est traitée correctement selon sa nature (région, cépage…) et sa technique (type d’alambic…), elle peut être une excellente source d’eau-de-vie de grande classe.

À vos marcs…

Matthieu Frécon, Sarreyer, Vendanges 2019

 

Bidons chez marie the re se chappaz
Quelques bidons en attente d'être remplis chez Marie-Thérèse Chappaz à Charrat (Valais) : Syrah, Marsanne, Roussane, Humagne, Pinot, Gamay, Cornalin…

 

distillerie metté distillation alcools eaux-de-vie alambic marc eau-de-vie de Marc Aupilhac domaine Mas Julien grappa

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  • Uhlen Marc
    • 1. Uhlen Marc Le 16/10/2023
    Bonjour,
    Je suis un distillateur amateur depuis de nombreuses années et j'ai l'habitude de travailler et distiller les différents fruits mais c'est la 1ère fois que je me lance dans le marc de raisin et J'aurai aimé savoir comment vous conservez les marc de raisins dans les fûts en plastique jusqu'a la distillation?
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    Marc, distillateur amateur
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